Bill & Dan's Laos Adventure
Out of Chiang Mai on November 12, across the Mekong at Huay Xai and two days on the slow boat down to Luang Prabang. Then 30 days of Laos, north to south — karst rivers, the sleepiest capital in Asia and ten days in a hammock on Don Det. Scroll to follow the route.
Chiang Mai — the launch pad
The trip starts in the north. One last night in the old city, a bowl of khao soi, and on the morning of the 12th the Green Bus east: six hours to Chiang Khong, a sleepy town on the Mekong with Laos sitting right there on the far bank.
Huay Xai — the border & the slow boat
Over the Friendship Bridge at eight, a 30-day visa stamped at Huay Xai, and by eleven we're on the wooden slow boat. Seven hours of jungle banks, water buffalo and Beer Lao until the boat ties up at Pakbeng at sunset. Day one of thirty.
Pakbeng → Luang Prabang
Second day on the river: eight more hours of Mekong, the boat swinging past the Pak Ou caves and their thousands of Buddhas where the Nam Ou joins. Luang Prabang's pier at five, the night market by dark.
Luang Prabang
Five nights in the old royal capital, a UNESCO town where the Mekong meets the Nam Khan. Alms at dawn, Kuang Si waterfalls, Mount Phousi at sunset and the night market every evening.
Nong Khiaw
North by minivan to the little town on the Nam Ou river, hemmed in by limestone cliffs. Two days: the Pha Daeng viewpoint climb, kayaking under the karsts, and evenings on a riverside deck.
Muang Ngoi
An hour upriver by boat to Muang Ngoi Neua — a village with one street, no ATM and total calm. Two days of walking to weaving villages, caves and doing gloriously little. On the 23rd: downriver at dawn and onto the bullet train south.
Vang Vieng
The Laos–China railway drops us under the karst mountains in an hour. A full week: tubing on the Nam Song, blue lagoons, hot-air balloons at dawn, caves and viewpoint hikes — the backpacker classic, calmer than its reputation.
Vientiane
Two days in the sleepiest capital in Asia: golden Pha That Luang, Patuxai arch, Buddha Park, and beer Lao at the night market on the river.
Savannakhet
A one-night stop halfway down the country — crumbling French-colonial quarter, riverside noodle stalls and a Mekong sunset over to Thailand on the far bank. Breaks the long bus run south to the islands.
Don Det — 4000 Islands
Bus to Pakse, songthaew to Nakasang, longtail across to Si Phan Don — the 4000 Islands. Ten days on Don Det: hammocks over the river, bicycle loops to Don Khon, the Khone Phapheng falls and, with luck, the Irrawaddy dolphins. Day 30 on the visa. The grand finale.
🏁 Chiang Mai → Don Det
30 days in Laos, Nov 13 – Dec 12, 2026 — two of them on the Mekong slow boat. Luang Prabang 5 nights · Nong Khiaw 2 · Muang Ngoi 2 · Vang Vieng 7 · Vientiane 2 · Savannakhet 1 · Don Det 10.